How to Fight with Two-Handed Weapons - B/X Weapon Tactics

One of the most frequently ignored rules in B/X Dungeons & Dragons is that two-handed weapons always lose initiative. I'm not going to defend the rule here. I'm going to explain how to use two-handed weapons if you don't ignore the rule. 

This next monsters up in my series on B/X monster tactics are likely to have two-handed weapons, and they would definitely know how to use them effectively.

First Things First

So far as I can tell, the 1981 rule book isn't entirely clear about whether two-handed weapons lose initiative when you aren't using variable weapon damage. If you're not using variable weapon damage, though, then you probably shouldn't make two-handed weapons lose initiative either. I'm going assume variable damage.

The two-handed weapons are the crossbow (1d6 damage), battle axe (1d8), two-handed sword (1d10), and pole arm (1d10). Fighters, Elves and Thieves can use them all. Dwarves can use the crossbow and battle axe. Halflings can use the crossbow.

Not everybody is cut out for using two-handed swords, pole arms, or battle axes. For one thing, you can't use them with a shield. So, you might want to avoid them if your Dexterity isn't at least 13, giving you an AC bonus that's at least like having a shield.

Second, when you use a two-handed weapon, your risk of giving your enemy first strike against you. So, a good AC, a lot of hit points, a high Constitution score, and/or a Dexterity of 16 or better would also be desirable. As we'll see, the risk of getting hit first is greater in the dungeon than outside, so you might consider reserving two-handed weapons for outdoor use.

Other editions restrict their options, but in B/X, thieves can use pole arms, two-handed swords and crossbows, and they can (arguably) gain the benefits of striking unnoticed from behind when they do so. More on that later.

Who Cares if You Lose Initiative?

When you use a two-handed weapon, you lose initiative. That's a bad thing, right? It's the cost of dealing 1d10 damage instead of the measly 1d8 you'd deal with a sword. Isn't it?

Sort of. The thing is, 1d10 vs. 1d8 is only 1 more point of damage per round on average, and not all the two-handed weapons deal 1d10 damage. The battle axe deals 1d8 (same as a sword), and the crossbow 1d6 (same as a short bow)!

However, losing initiative isn't necessarily a bad thing. As any war gamer can tell you, there can be benefits to moving second, after the enemy has already moved and you've seen where they went. Consider this situation:

Pico the Fighter has a sword and shield, and he's encountered Orko the orc, who has a sword. Pico is AC 2 and moves 20' per round (plate mail + shield). Orko is AC 6 (leather armor + shield) and moves 40' per round. They are 70' apart. Who gets strikes the first blow?

Round 1: Pico wins initiative and moves 20' closer to Orko. Orko moves 5' closer to Pico. Their distance is now 45'. (If Orko wins the initiative, he still should just move 5', answered by Pico's move of 20' or less.)

Round 2: If Orko wins the initiative, he moves in and gets the first blow. If Pico wins the initiative, he still can't make it all the way to Orko. Orko will close the distance on his side's turn, and Orko gets the first blow against Pico.

Their speed difference means Pico can't get the first blow unless the encounter starts with Orko 25' away or less. Otherwise, Orko can always end his movement 45' from Pico until he is able to close in and get the first blow. And that's with Pico using a normal sword and rolling initiative. If Pico has a two-handed weapon, he'll lose the initiative every time, but it works out the same. The orc gets first strike against him.

The Lesson: If you're already slower than the enemy, they'll get first melee strike against you whether you have a two-handed weapon or not. Losing initiative doesn't cost you much.

And The Lesson applies both ways. If you're faster than the enemy, you can have first strike against them whether you have a two-handed weapon or not. You just need to start the round close enough to move to the enemy but too far for the enemy to move to you. The only way they can avoid giving you the first strike is to back up out of your range.

So, first strike in melee depends more on who is faster, not on initiative. Unless the encounter starts with the enemy already within your movement. That will happen more often in the dungeon than outside. If you're slow and you want a chance to get the first strike in the dungeon, don't use a two-handed melee weapon. If you're slow and you want the first melee strike outside, just forget about it. You won't get it even if you use a one-handed weapon.

Fighters, Dwarves and Elves

If you're a Fighter, Dwarf, or Elf, your movement is probably 20' per round due to your metal armor. You are slow.

Here's what happens if you have a one-handed weapon and the enemy is just as slow as you are. The enemy should stay more than 25' away from you until they lose initiative. Then they should end their movement 25' feet from you. In the next round, if they win initiative, they can close and strike you first. If initiative is tied, they can close and strike you, but you will get to try to hit them too. You can have first strike, but only if you win initiative. Of course, you'll be trying the same thing. So, in effect, after the first round you'll be 25' apart (if possible), and first strike will go to the initiative winner in round 2.

With a two handed weapon, the enemy never loses initiative. So, they can't wait to close until they've lost initiative, hoping not to lose it the following round. They just have to close. But if they end their movement within 25' of you, you can close the distance and get the first strike. If their speed is the same as yours, and the encounter distance is 30' or more, they have to come that close if they want to attack you. They had a chance of getting the first strike against you when you had the smaller weapon, but now they don't. All you have to do is stand your ground and make them come to you. Meanwhile, your party's spell casters and ranged attackers are doing their thing.

For heavily armored Fighters, Dwarves, and Elves, then, the two-handed melee weapons have a defensive function against enemies the same speed as you (usually other heavily armored attackers). They have to give you the first attack if they want to close to melee. Against faster enemies, it's a moot point; they're going to get the first attack no matter what. Still, it might take them an additional round to get to you, as they avoid ending their movement within 25' of you.

I think this solves some of the mystery of the battle axe. Why would anyone choose battle axe over weapon over a sword, which allows a shield and doesn't lose initiative every time? If you're a Dwarf, though, it's the only way you can gain guarantee yourself first strike against enemies the same speed as you. You're too small for a two-handed sword or a pole arm.

Not a lot of monsters have a speed of just 20', though. So, most of the time, all you're doing is slowing the enemy advance, not guaranteeing yourself the first strike. Your allies should take advantage of that with spells and missile attacks. Your job is to be the threat who makes them pause 30' or 35' away from you, rather than coming close enough for you to swoop in and hit them.

Skirmishing with Crossbows

It's unrealistic, but crossbows are the ideal skirmish weapons, especially for halflings and thieves. Ranged skirmish tactics rely on "the old scoot 'n shoot." You move to a place your enemy can't reach you, and then you shoot them. Repeat until the enemy is dead.

That maneuver is much easier if you know that you and your enemy will be alternating turns throughout the fight. Yes, the crossbow-wielder is yielding initiative in the first round, so they definitely don't want to start the fight within their enemy's movement range. But after that, so long as their enemy isn't faster than them and they have room to maneuver, the enemy can't catch them if they spend each turn moving away and then shooting.

With a longbow or short bow, you have to be twice as fast as your enemy to guarantee they won't be able to catch you. That's because your enemy might lose initiative one round and win initiative the next, effectively getting to move twice before you get to scoot. Archers with bows need to be unarmored, and facing enemies with metal armor, to skirmish.

With a crossbow, you don't have to be twice as fast as your enemy. You just need not to be slower than them. Crossbowmen in leather armor can skirmish effectively against any enemies with 30' or less of movement per round.

Did I mention that crossbows have the longest range of any missile weapons: 80' for short, 160' for medium, and 240' for long? Because crossbows have the longest range of any missile weapons. They can be great weapons.

If you're a Halfling, you get +1 to all your ranged attack rolls, and you can hide well outdoors. You make a very good crossbow ambusher/skirmisher. However, your ability to skirmish will be limited if your armor is heavier than your enemy's.

If you're a Thief, you also make a good crossbow ambusher/skirmisher. The ambush option is especially nice if you can manage to attack unnoticed from behind. Many DMs don't allow Thieves to benefit from striking unnoticed from behind with missile weapons. But in a game that allows it, that +4 to hit and double damage is always welcome.

Of course, Fighters, Elves, and Dwarves can also skirmish with crossbows. They'll be much more effective in leather or no armor, though. In metal armor, any enemy with 30' of movement will eventually be able to catch them, since they can "scoot" only 20' at a time.

Thieves

In my opinion, Thieves are better able to enjoy the benefits of two-handed weapons than any other class. They can't use shields anyway, so they don't have the option of better AC with a different weapon. They are restricted to leather armor, which means they'll easily have the speed to be effective skirmishers.

And then there's striking unnoticed from behind: +4 to hit and double damage.

If the DM allows it, a thief should use a crossbow for this at every opportunity. That's especially true because the "opportunity" is probably that the enemy is engaged in melee with one of your allies in front of them. Even if they did want to come attack you the round after you shoot them, they'd have to retreat and risk an attack from your ally at +2 to hit.

(Be careful: Your DM might use "friendly fire" rules, which could discourage that tactic.)

But the melee strike from behind with a pole arm or two-handed sword shouldn't be underestimated. You just have to do it right.

In the ideal case, your strike will kill the enemy. Then there's no question of them making a return attack. It's also good for there to be someone else engaged with the enemy in melee—someone they may want to attack instead of you when they get their turn.

If the enemy does survive your attack, though, you must remember that that attack is a one-time thing. Either drop your weapon immediately or (if the DM allows it) simply declare that you won't be using it next round. If you have an ally on the opposite side of the enemy, declare a retreat (if your hp are good) or fighting withdrawal (if they aren't) for the following round.

In the next round, there's a 42% chance the enemy will win initiative and be able to attack you before you can move away. But 58% of the time, you'll win or tie on the initiative, meaning you can move before the enemy attacks. That's why your ally on the other side is so useful. Your enemy can't avoid attacks from them in those cases. If the enemy has to retreat to get to you and attack, they'll give your ally +2 to hit them.

Some DMs require monsters to declare retreats before the initiative is rolled. In those games,  the monster probably won't be retreating to catch you anyway, and you'll be able to get away scot free.

I can't say that's all better than just making strikes unnoticed from behind with a normal sword.  Really, it's normal tactics for Thieves. Here's the only difference. Normally, a Thief should wait until they lose initiative to make their strike. Otherwise the enemy is guaranteed a return blow that round if they survive. With a two-handed weapon, the Thief doesn't have to wait, because they will be losing initiative for certain. They can then drop the weapon after striking, and they'll have that same chance of getting away before the return attack that a thief with a one-handed weapon would have.

Your Backup Sword

Eventually, you are going to be already engaged in melee. You've made a strike (hopefully the first strike) with your two-handed weapon. What next? Do you keep using it, ceding initiative every round, or do you switch to another weapon?

I favor dropping the two-handed weapon and switching to something else right away. You've just lost initiative. Switching to another weapon reduces your per-round damage output, but it reduces your chance of losing initiative in the next round to either 42% or 50%. (The chances depend on how the DM handles tied rolls. I like simultaneous initiative on ties, so, for my game, it's 42%.) You're going to want a sword (or short sword, for Halflings) to use as soon as you're engaged with the enemy. Your two-handed weapon is good for one attack. Then you drop it and use something faster.

Are Two-Handed Weapons Worth It?

Maybe. Two-handed weapons give you some options you don't have with one-handed weapons. They let you take advantage of having a set initiative order in which you know you will get a turn after each of your enemy's turns, throughout the battle. Depending on your risk tolerance, that might be worth not using a shield. Since Thieves can't use shields, two-handed weapons are especially attractive to them.

Here are some considerations about all the two-handed weapon types:

• Crossbow: This is the skirmisher's weapon of choice.
• Battle axe: Only of use to dwarves who want the benefits of two-handed weapons described above.
• Two-handed sword: Magic ones are nice, and you may be able to use them in some places where pole arms aren't practical. Otherwise, pole arms are just better.
• Pole arm: All the benefits of the two-handed sword, and they can be set against charges. Plus, some DMs let you attack from more than 5' away with them. These are the non-magical two-handed melee weapons of choice for Fighters, Elves, and Thieves.

White Ape - B/X Monster Tactics

 White apes are weird monsters. They have lost their color from living underground, but they are nocturnal herbivores. So, they remain sensitive to the cycle of night and day, and their preferred food doesn't grow in caves (except for magic ones!). They must live in caverns with access to the surface, and they come out at night to forage. This also means they face a problem of what to eat in the winter. There are several possible solutions, and your campaign could have different varieties of white ape who have settled on each of them.

• Live where it's warm. If there is no winter, there is no problem finding food in the winter.
• Eat roots. Some white apes may become expert in finding nutritious roots to eat, maybe even stocking up on them so they have easy access in the winter. Unlike leaves and fruits, roots stick around all winter.
• Hibernate. I don't think there are any apes who hibernate, but in a fantasy world, why not?
• Get domesticated. Neanderthals often keep white apes as pets. That makes their food the neanderthals' problem, and neanderthals are a lot smarter than white apes.

When white apes do leave their caves, it will be on a moonless night. They will range around their lair, looking for the plants they prefer to eat. They are protective of their lair, but they aren't hunters. They are generally not aggressive, unless they perceive that their lair is in danger.

Being 4 HD creatures, white apes are larger than man-sized but just a little smaller than ogres. I put them at 7' to 8' tall.

Encountering White Apes

It usually isn't necessary to make reaction rolls for white apes. Outside their lair, they will try to avoid other creatures, unless those other creatures are approaching their lair. In their lair, or if other creatures are approaching it, they will behave as their description indicates. First, they make warning noises. Those noises are warnings to intruders that they'd better leave, but they also put any other white apes in the lair on alert. Then, if the intruders don't leave, the apes start throwing rocks.

The apes' rocks deal 1d6 points of damage, but no range is specified. They are 4 HD creatures, though, so they are probably quite strong, and only a little smaller than ogres. So, giving their rocks ranges comparable to a sling is appropriate: 40' for short range, 80' for medium range, and 160' for long range. This also guarantees that any white ape encounters at the standard 2d6 x 10' encounter distance will be within range of the rocks they throw.

The apes don't just carry around rocks to throw. Their rocks are weapons of opportunity. It's up to the DM to decide how plentiful the rock supply is. Above ground, I'd generally assume an ape can throw 1-4 rocks before needing to move to where there are more. In natural caves, the supply might be, for all practical purposes, limitless.

White Apes in the Dungeon

Groups of 1-6 white apes wander on the 4th level of a dungeon. Smaller groups might appear as high as the first level (probably just a single ape) or as low as the 7th (maybe 3-18). Wandering apes are on their way to gather food, possibly lost, just wandering aimlessly or exploring. If they see light, however, they will immediately flee back to protect their lair. Unless the PCs are between the apes and their lair, the apes won't start a fight with them. If the PCs start a fight, and the apes aren't protecting their lair, the apes will defend themselves in melee but run from missile attacks.

Though white apes aren't intelligent, they are social, and so they will fight as a group. When one is attacked, all who can do so will gang up on the attacker. Given their size, that's probably not more than four apes against a human or elf, possibly as few as two against a dwarf or halfling.

Unless they are being kept as pets, the white apes' dungeon lair will be a natural cavern, typically on the 4th level but with easy access to the outside. Probably, this is a hidden dungeon entrance, which may or may not connect to other levels as well. If it does connect to other levels, you have a good explanation for any white apes wandering on levels other than where their lair is. The apes got lost somehow, and they're trying to find their way home.

A dungeon lair of white apes will include a troop of 2-8, and they don't usually have treasure. Of course, the DM is free to decide that they just happen to be lairing where something valuable is, but it would have to be a special treasure placed deliberately. In the daytime, all the apes will be asleep. At night, 1-6 of them at a time will be out wandering, while the rest stay home. White apes don't fortify their lairs or post sentries. Instead, they prefer locations that are naturally hard to find or get into, with easy access to water and a way out so they can forage. An ideal white ape lair has an entrance smaller creatures would have to climb to reach, likely with an elevated ledge from which the apes can throw rocks down on intruders.

Although they don't carry around rocks when they wander, it's reasonable to assume white apes have amassed a collection of rocks to throw when they are protecting their lair.

White Apes in the Wilderness

In the wilderness, white apes forage in groups of 2-8, and their lairs have 10-40 apes. They are only encountered outside their lair at night. Assume half the apes are at home when the others are foraging, and the entire group is asleep in the lair at night.

While a dungeon white ape lair is probably just a single cavern, a wilderness lair might be a more complicated cave with as many as five or more different chambers, each home to a group of 2-8 apes. Like a dungeon lair, the wilderness lair will have an entrance that's hard for other creatures to reach and a way for the apes to throw rocks down on intruders who come too close.

Fighting White Apes

White apes don't have sophisticated tactics. They run from fights, unless they are cornered or protecting their lair. They will throw rocks at enemies until the enemies are 45' away or closer. Then they will move into melee, attacking twice with their claws each round. Once white apes are in melee, others will fight the same enemy, but they don't necessarily focus their missile attacks. They don't choose their targets in any sophisticated way either. They just attack whatever enemy is closest or, in melee, whoever hit them most recently.

Morale Checks

White ape morale is 7, which is pretty average. But they have a strong survival instinct, and they don't have the sort of intelligence necessary for organized fighting. Any white ape who is loses a third of its starting hit points (on average, that's 6), will try to flee.

Otherwise, morale checks for white apes are as normal, but count any white ape who has fled as a death on the white apes' side. (That is, if there have been no deaths on either side, check for the apes after the first one flees). Increase the apes' morale by 2 if they are defending their lair.

White apes don't have language and can't surrender. All they can do is flee. Different DMs handle this differently, so here are some options:

• White apes who aren't in melee run away; this is handled just like evasion and pursuit at the beginning of an encounter.
• White apes in melee retreat if anyone else is also in melee against their melee opponent (or opponents). Otherwise, they make 20' fighting withdrawals, hoping the initiative eventually allows them to run away.
• If your game doesn't require monster retreats and fighting withdrawals to be declared before initiative is rolled, white apes always retreat the maximum distance possible after failing a morale check.

Acolytes - B/X Monster Tactics

Acolytes are the first monsters in the B/X monster list, and the first entry in the B/X wandering monster table. So, it's fitting for them to be first in this series of posts about monsters and their tactics in B/X D&D, OSE, and related systems.

Acolytes encountered in the dungeon or wilderness are 1^st-level NPC clerics on pilgrimages or just looking for adventure. They are equally likely to be Lawful, Neutral, or Chaotic, but they will all have the same alignment in any event.

Acolytes are human. So, when they fight, they fight intelligently and try to preserve their lives. However, Lawful and Chaotic acolytes might be aggressive to those they see as supporting the other side. Neutral acolytes don’t care about the conflict between Law and Chaos, but they will not tolerate interruptions or obstacles to whatever quest they see themselves as on.

Acolytes are listed as 1 HD, rather than 1d6 hp or 1 – 1 or 1 – 2 HD, but they are also described as “1^st-level NPC clerics.” It is up to you how to determine their hit points, but if you roll 1d8, you can think of any who have more than 6 hp as those who have been endowed with above-average Constitution scores.

Reactions

If you roll reactions for a group of acolytes, here are some ways to interpret the results.

• “Immediate Attack.” If the acolytes are outnumbered, they will seek reinforcements to make an attack later.
•  “Hostile, Possible Attack.” The acolytes will issue a warning. If the warning is ignored, they will attack unless they are outnumbered, in which case they will seek reinforcements.
•  “Uncertain, monster confused.” The acolytes will try to find out who the party are and whether they are a threat.
• “No attack, monster leaves or considers offers.” The acolytes will either leave the area (carrying news of the party to their allies) or offer to help for a negotiated price. Chaotic acolytes are probably looking for a chance to betray the party.
• “Enthusiastic friendship.” The acolytes offer their assistance to the party. If they are Chaotic, the offer is likely a lie.

Acolytes in Dungeons

Acolytes are usually found on the first level of a dungeon, but they may be found as deep as the third level. On the first level, they wander in groups of 1-8, and their dungeon lairs will contain 1-20. Any wandering group with at least four acolytes will include a higher-level cleric, and the population of the lair will include one higher-level cleric for every four acolytes.

Outside their lairs, acolytes are much more common in the day than at night, unless they have some specific holy or unholy business that must be conducted in the night.

Acolytes might have any of several kinds of dungeon lairs. If the acolytes are on a holy quest, their lair will be a more-or-less temporary base camp for their expeditions against whatever enemies they are there to defeat.

The acolytes’ lair might also be a dungeon-based shrine or monastery. Lawfuls rarely have shrines in dungeons. If they do, the shrines will be well-guarded and the acolytes will work to maintain a safe passage for pilgrims. A quarter or more of the lair’s population will consist of pilgrims.

Chaotics rarely welcome pilgrims to their shrines. Instead, the shrines are secret locations where they conduct dark rituals. They will be well-guarded, perhaps with skeletons and zombies guarding the ways into it. If a group of chaotic acolytes has a dungeon lair, you can be sure that they are trying to take charge of any other humanoid monsters on the same level.

Dungeon shrines of neutral acolytes might be like those of Lawfuls or Chaotics. Neutrals usually don’t perform dark rituals quite as enthusiastically as Chaotics, but they may still prefer to keep their religious observances private and away from the prying eyes of others, who might get the wrong impression.

Acolytes in the Wilderness

In the wilderness, acolytes travel in groups of 1 to 20, with one higher-level cleric for every four of them. They are typically encountered only in inhabited areas and cities. Dangerous journeys through uninhabited areas are best less to more experienced pilgrims! 

When encountered outside the dungeon, the acolytes are on their way to or from a holy site. There is no reason to assume their destination is nearby.

The wilderness lairs of acolytes range from small hermitages of five acolytes and a higher level cleric to much larger abbeys, with 100 acolytes and overseen by twenty-five more experienced clerics.

Though they might have hired mercenaries or monsters, for security, the acolytes probably guard its inner sanctum themselves. In the daytime, one third will be asleep, as they have nighttime guard duties. Another third will be busy about the business of the shrine, praying, cooking, cleaning, sacrificing, and so on. The last third will have security responsibilities, either guarding or patrolling the area nearby. As always, every group of four acolytes will be overseen by a fifth, more senior cleric.

Combat Tactics

The tactics acolytes use will depend partly on whether they have leaders and, if so, what spells their leaders have available. Without leaders, they will form a line and advance on the enemy. If they win initiative, they won’t stop within movement range of enemies with melee weapons (45’ for unarmored enemies, 35’ for those in leather, 25’ for those in metal armor).

Lawful acolytes will usually aim to capture their enemies alive (if your rules allow for it, and they should), unless they are on mission to kill agents of Chaos. Chaotic acolytes aim to kill, unless they need prisoners for torture or sacrifice. Neutrals might kill or capture; they are likely to deal lethal damage but accept surrender.

Groups with leaders will form a line in front of the leader, but they will not move except to close and attack until the leader has run out of spells. Then the leaders will join the line (on the right for Lawfuls, on the left for Neutrals and Chaotics), and the line will move as when there is no higher-level leader.

Groups with Lawful Leaders

Spell selection depends on what the leaders are expecting on any given day. The options below are typical.

• 2^nd- and 3^rd-Level Leaders. When preparing for combat, they will usually select light. They cast the spell in the first round, prioritizing enemy spell casters, then ranged attackers, then melee attackers. Leaders who are 3^rd-level prepare two castings of light.
•  4th-Level Leaders.  If they are able to control when a fight will occur, these leaders prepare bless as their second-level spell, along with protection from evil and light as their first-level spells (unless they know they will be fighting Lawful enemies). They will cast protection from evil on themselves and bless on their whole group before going into combat. In combat, they will cast light in the first round. If they cannot predict, to within a half hour, when a battle will occur, they instead prepare two castings of light and one casting of hold person.They cast hold person first, trying to paralyze as many opponents as possible. In subsequent rounds, they use light to blind anyone not affected by hold person.
•  5^th-Level Leaders. These leaders prepare light, protection from evil, hold person, and bless. If possible, they cast bless and protection from evil before a fight. Otherwise, they cast bless in the first round if their allies are not engaged in melee, and they cast hold person in the second round, trying to paralyze as many enemies as possible.

Groups with Chaotic Leaders

Chaotic leaders will operate the same way Lawful ones do, but they will use cause fear in place of light. They can’t cast light, and darkness usually too easily gives the enemy the advantage of being unseen. Note that Chaotic leaders can cast bless on their allies, provided that those allies are of the same religion. In a group of acolytes, that condition will be met.

Groups with Neutral Leaders

A Neutral cleric who cannot cast light will use cause fear if it is available, protection from evil otherwise. If a Neutral cleric cannot cast bless, they will use blight at the first opportunity, imposing saving throw penalties on the enemy.

Treasure

If you were expecting acolytes’ lairs to be full of valuable religious objects, you might be disappointed. They have treasure type U, which means they have 71% chance of no treasure, and the little treasure they might have will be of little value. Gems and jewelry will be of a religious nature, and there is no need to replace coins in their treasure with other goods.

Even though Acolytes probably do not travel with much treasure beyond type U, there might be special religious treasures in their lairs. Such treasure isn't included as part of their assumed random loot, so it should be placed by the DM deliberately.

Especially for their higher-level leaders, you can give a 5% chance per level that the cleric has a magic item from each subtable, ignoring results that the cleric cannot use.

Edited for typos 2024-06-12.